Paris Fashion Week Fall 2012: Yves Saint Laurent
This Fall runway season has been a season of goodbyes. First, Raf Simons bid farewell to Jil Sander and now, Stefano Pilati’s women’s ready-to-wear collection is his last at Yves Saint Laurent. Pilati was named the creative director of the fashion house seven years ago and has been rumored for possible dismissal since day one, despite successful collections and a very strong accessories and footwear line that included the Tribute, as reported by WWD.com. It is unclear when he learned this would be his finale, but Pilati claimed it was not a factor in his design process.
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If his statement is indeed true, the Fall 2012 presentation at Paris Fashion Week revealed an ironic collection that emphasized a dark palette and displayed a motif of calla lilies, a flower that is associated with funerals and symbolizes rebirth. The mood, though, was not gloomy by any means. It was actually on the rebellious side with strong, fitted silhouettes crafted in leather, satin and wool. Pilati took a minimalist warrior stance with sleek jumpsuits and leather tops with rounded long sleeves paired with cropped trousers, matching suits in calla lily print, leather trench coats and tuxedo dresses.
To add to the rebellion, high-waist pencil skirts, tops and deep v-neck dresses were constructed in chainmail. Pilati also utilized the armor material as trim on necklines and wide straps on dresses.
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As per usual, the designer delivered accessories and footwear that were covetable and on-trend. Pumps boasted sturdy, angular heels in distressed or shiny metallics and clear vinyl. Slouchy, square-toe boots with block heels were fitted, allowing trousers to be worn over the shaft. And to further illustrate the calla lily concept, bracelet cuffs and collar necklaces appeared in the shape of the flower.
Pilati’s tenure at Yves Saint Laurent may have been a bumpy and controversial one, but he is proud of what he has accomplished, as he should be.
Hedi Slimane has been named as Pilati’s successor and will present his first collection for Resort. Slimane designed menswear for Yves Saint Laurent in the late ‘90s and has more recently revived Dior Homme, but has not designed womenswear yet.
Tagged in: paris, runway, fall 2012, paris fashion week, ready-to-wear, yves saint laurant, paris fashion week fall 2012, hedi slimane, stefano pilati,
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